Miles to go
ORY
Paris Orly
PTP
Pointe-à-Pitre
2 Weeks in Guadeloupe
The Butterfly Island — Grande Terre & Basse Terre
Duration
14 days
Flight
8h50
Date
Feb 2022

Guadeloupe, a French overseas territory, is an archipelago in the southern Caribbean Sea. The Butterfly Island, split between Grande Terre and Basse Terre, is an ideal spot to spend the winter in the tropics. We went for 14 days between February and March 2022.

✓ Trip in February 2022

Here's a rundown of the activities and spots we visited during these 14 days across the different areas of the island — far from an exhaustive list, given how diverse the island is.

01A first taste of the Caribbean

Departure from Paris Orly aboard an Air Caraïbes A350-900 at 2:40pm, arriving in Pointe-à-Pitre at 6:30pm local time, after an 8h50 flight. Ti-Punch is served on board — a great preview of what's to come.

P ÉCO parking (secure outdoor, 2 weeks)€160
Upgrade to Premium Economy (Classe Caraïbes)€100/pers.
Upgrade to Business (Classe Madras)€530/pers.
✎ Free shuttles between the parking lot and terminals — upgrades are requested at check-in, subject to availability
Ti-Punch on board
Ti-Punch on board

02Grande Terre

Le Moule

A week spent with friends at the Résidence de la Baie des Bambous — four villas just steps from the bay and a small shopping area (Carrefour Market, bakery, pharmacy, pizzeria).

Place Centrale Market
Saturday, 6am-12pm
Night farmers' market
Wednesday, 3:30pm-8:30pm
Local produce, warm and genuine atmosphere.
Plage de l'Autre Bord
Lined with coconut trees and golden sand, protected by a coral barrier — great for swimming.
Domaine de Zévallos
Tue & Fri 2:30pm, by reservation · €8/€4
A striking, unusual 1844 colonial mansion and former sugar estate. Unfortunately we couldn't visit despite passing by several times.
Damoiseau Distillery
Mon-Sat 8:15am-5:30pm · free
Tastings available in the shop.
Gwadinina FWI Distillery
Shop 9am-5pm · tour €5
A young estate founded in 2002, 100% artisanal production. Check their site for tour/tasting time slots.
The villa
The villa
Town hall, Le Moule
Town hall
Saint Jean Baptiste church
St Jean Baptiste church
Market
Market
Damoiseau Distillery
Damoiseau Distillery
Gwadinina Distillery
Gwadinina Distillery

Saint-François

Pointe des Châteaux is a must — striking cliffs, powerful waves, a beach at the base. Down below, a ten-minute walking trail leads to the Cross and its panoramic view. Just before it, the food stand "Au Soif les Bronzés" serves bokits, cod fritters and Antillean specialties.

Along the way, a spot that's well known but poorly signposted: la Douche — several rocky pools where the swell rushes in like geysers. A salty shower guaranteed.

The Marina de Saint-François brings together restaurants and water activities — this is where we left for Petite Terre with AWAK. Some French women from Moselle also launched Donuts BBQ Boat here, for a day out on the lagoon.

Pointe des Châteaux
Pointe des Châteaux
Au Soif les Bronzés
Au Soif les Bronzés
La Douche
La Douche
Plage des Raisins Clairs
Raisins Clairs
Saint-François Marina
St-François Marina

Sainte-Anne

Plage du Bourg
Parking €3/day
Fairly quiet.
Restaurant Kontiki
Local and seafood flavors, right on the beach.
Fabienne Youyoutte
Ice cream maker-pastry chef-confectioner-chocolatier — outstanding pastries, homemade ice cream cones.
Zamana Restaurant, Le Relais du Moulin
Stunning setting, "Spa Day" or "Tea Time" packages available online.
Plage du Bourg
Plage du Bourg
Zamana Restaurant
Zamana Restaurant

Morne-à-l'Eau

The Morne-à-l'Eau cemetery is, to say the least, extraordinary — its black and white checkerboard graves give it the look of a giant chessboard, arranged like an amphitheater on a hillside. One of the oldest graves is said to date back to 1847. Every year on All Saints' Day, the cemetery lights up with thousands of candles at nightfall, in a surprisingly festive atmosphere.

To the north, Anse-Bertrand

Anse Castalia Cave
D122
Short descent but bring hiking shoes. Swimming forbidden, impressive waves.
Trou à Man-Louis
D122, via a forest trail
A small, idyllic and secluded cove.
Au coin de la Mangrove
Fishing port
Authentic restaurant, no-frills traditional dishes, very reasonable prices. Rum available to make your own Ti-Punch.
Anse Castalia
Anse Castalia
Trou à Man-Louis
Trou à Man-Louis
Au coin de la Mangrove
Au coin de la Mangrove
Au coin de la Mangrove
Au coin de la Mangrove

03Basse Terre

Deshaies

For the second half of the trip, 6 nights booked at the Hôtel Le Rayon Vert in Deshaies — a pool with a panoramic view of the Caribbean Sea. The curfew (8pm-5am at booking time, pushed back to 11pm by the time we arrived) led us to choose half-board — and we didn't regret it: a different menu every day, courtesy of a chef from mainland France.

Hôtel Le Rayon Vert
Le Rayon Vert
Hôtel Le Rayon Vert
Le Rayon Vert
Botanical Garden
Daily 9am-4:30pm · €15.90/€10.90
Former property of French comedian Coluche, 7 hectares. Fairly pricey entry. Animal feed (birds, fish, goats): €2.
Point de vue de Gadet
N2, Rifflet
Panoramic view of the Caribbean Sea and Grande Anse beach.
Plage de Leroux
80m wild beach, uncrowded, calm swimming. Access from Pointe Ferry (RN2), parking available.
Plage de Grande Anse
Postcard-perfect golden sand and coconut trees, 2km north of Deshaies. Watch out for currents and swell offshore. Food stands on site.
Plage de la Perle
Golden sand, view of Montserrat island, protected by a coral barrier.
Botanical Garden
Botanical Garden
Point de vue de Gadet
Point de vue de Gadet
Plage de la Perle
Plage de la Perle
Plage de la Perle
Plage de la Perle

Sainte-Rose

JR Reimonenq Rum Museum
Mon-Sat 9am-5pm · €6/€4, ~1h with tasting
Distillery founded in 1916, agricultural rum distilled from pure sugar cane juice.
Bain Soufré de Sofaïa
Formed during the 1843 earthquake, water at 31°C with claimed healing properties — today just a simple stream of water to shower under.

Pointe-Noire

Port de pêche au Calebassier
Creole cuisine at very good prices, view of the small port.
Maison du Cacao
10am-5pm (hours vary by season) · €6
Tropical cocoa tree garden, history of chocolate, bean tasting and hot chocolate made right in front of you.
Gwakako — Chocolate workshop
Mon-Sat, by reservation · €50/€30
Make your own chocolate bar, followed by a guided tour of the plantation.
Vanilleraie Fety
Tue-Sat 9:15am-5:15pm · €5
~1h passionate tour on the growing and making of vanilla.
Le Saut d'Acomat
~15 min walk to a waterfall and swimming pool. Steep, slippery descent, hard to find parking when busy.
Maison du Cacao
Maison du Cacao
Gwakako
Gwakako
Gwakako
Gwakako
Vanilleraie Fety
Vanilleraie Fety
Le Saut d'Acomat
Saut d'Acomat

Bouillante

Known for its geothermal power plant, which releases water at 70°C — you can bathe at the "Bain Chaud," said to have therapeutic properties.

Plage de Malendure
The most touristy — starting point for the Cousteau Reserve.
Plage de Petite Anse
Wild cove between cliffs, gray sand, safe swimming, calm sea. The food stand Chez Chantal sits right on the beach — restrooms available (rare on Guadeloupe's beaches), limited parking.

Basse-Terre (town)

The Bologne distillery is right on the road as you arrive — large shop, view of the warehouse, tastings. A walk along the Esplanade offers a great view of Mont Caraïbes.

Mont Caraïbes
Mont Caraïbes

The trip ended with a head full of memories, and a burning desire to come back to this beautiful island...

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