A Long Weekend in Venice
The Serenissima, the Doges' city frozen in time
Venice, the Serenissima, is a perfect stop for a long weekend in Italy. The Doges' city is packed with treasures, in a place that feels frozen in time. In October 2024, after a 1h30 flight from Luxembourg, we settled in for 4 nights in an apartment in San Marco, to enjoy the start of autumn.
✓ Trip in October 2024
✎ something to know before you travel: the access fee. Since 2024, Venice charges a contributo di accesso to visitors entering the historic centre without staying the night. In 2026 it applies on 60 non-consecutive days between April and July, mainly weekends and public holidays: €5 if you book at least four days ahead, €10 last minute. Everything is done online, on the city's official site. If you sleep in Venice you're exempt — but you still need to register for the exemption.
01Getting around
From Marco Polo airport, three ways into the centre. Watch out for a very common trap: vaporetto passes never cover the airport buses, which are priced separately.
Once in the city, the vaporetto links the neighbourhoods and the islands of the lagoon.
Single ticket, 75 minutes€9.50
24 h pass€25
48 h pass€35
72 h pass€45
7 day pass€65
✎ the best tip in Venice: the Rolling Venice card. If you're between 6 and 29, it costs €6 and brings the 72 h pass down from €45 to €27. It's the biggest saving available in the city, and hardly anyone mentions it.
✎ tap in every time you board, even with a valid pass. Checks are frequent and the fine is €60. And a €9.50 single costs the same to cross the Grand Canal as to reach the far end of the lagoon: from three journeys onwards, the 24 h pass pays for itself.
✎ walking remains the best option — getting lost in the streets away from the crowds, crossing from one bank to the other

Venice
02The neighbourhoods
Venice is divided into six sestieri:
For a first trip, we chose San Marco for its location — Venice is generally pricey, and San Marco is the most expensive area to stay in. We booked the Airbnb San Marco Roof Terrace Apartment, 4 nights for €1,090.
✎ the tourist tax is never included in the advertised price and is paid separately on arrival. Budget for it.

San Marco
03Sights & activities
Piazza San Marco, Basilica & Bell Tower
Venice's most famous and most touristy square, with St Mark's Basilica and the Campanile, 98 metres high, taking in the whole city. Booking is essential for the Campanile: only around thirty tickets per time slot.

Piazza San Marco
The Doge's Palace
Near the basilica and bell tower — the former residence of the Republic of Venice's supreme authority, a jewel of Venetian Gothic architecture.
The Bridge of Sighs
Once connected the palace to the prison — prisoners got their last glimpse of Venice here, on the way from the courtroom to their cell.

Bridge of Sighs
The Venice Opera House — La Fenice
Opened in 1792, the theatre lives up to its name: la fenice means the phoenix. It has burned down twice and risen from the ashes each time. A first fire tore through it on the night of 13-14 December 1836 — it reopened less than a year later. The second, arson, broke out on 29 January 1996 and left only the outer walls standing; the rebuild, carried out under the motto dov'era e com'era, "where it was and as it was", was completed in December 2003.
Understated from the outside, breathtaking on the inside.
Hours (on non-performance days)9:30am-6pm
Reduced (under 26, over 65)≈ €9 to €10
Entry / adult≈ €14
✎ an audio guide is included in the ticket. For more, guided tours with backstage access and the Apollinean Rooms are available, at around €25.

La Fenice

La Fenice
The Rialto Bridge & the Accademia Bridge
The Rialto, Venice's oldest bridge (1588-1591), remains famous for its architecture and strategic position — ideal early in the morning for photos without the crowds. The Accademia Bridge, timber on a metal structure, is named after the neighbouring museum; it gives the finest view along the Grand Canal towards the Salute.

Rialto Bridge

Accademia Bridge
The islands — Murano, Burano, Lido & Torcello
All reachable by vaporetto, and covered by the passes. Murano for glass, Burano for its coloured houses, Torcello for the silence, the Lido for the beach.

The islands

The islands
Vivaldi's Four Seasons
Hard to imagine anything more fittingly romantic than a performance of the Four Seasons in Venice. We experienced it at I Musici Veneziani, in a beautiful hall, musicians in period costume — arrive right at opening for a good seat. At the Church of San Vidal, the acoustics differ, the building being a church, and the musicians aren't in period costume.
An evening at the Venice Jazz Club, in Dorsoduro, rounds out the trip nicely.

Venice Jazz Club
Venice isn't a city you visit, it's a city you feel. It surprises you, it soothes you, it fills you with wonder. This long weekend mostly leaves you wanting to come back, under different light, in different seasons — that's the magic of Venice: it stays with you long after you've left.